Sunday, January 15, 2017

Coffee Mate

Author's Note: I wrote this last spring. I am just getting around to posting it now, as I am dreaming of another spring in the middle of a cold winter.

Coffee Mate

It’s an early spring, and I’m grateful for that.  When the weather is cool, I spend the two hours between when I get up and when I wake up my wife wondering what to do about the coffee. Do I make some for me, knowing that in two hours I will have to make some fresh coffee? Or do I compromise and make some green tea and wait for my wife to get up before brewing some coffee? Or do I just give her cold coffee, somewhat bitter from its time in the pot, and heat it up in the microwave? You see the decisions I face and I’ve only been up a few minutes. But now it’s spring and the coffee conundrum doesn’t bug me so much, because I can breeze right through the kitchen with nary a thought of coffee on my mind, and go right into the garden.

There is a lot to do. There’s the grass that has taken hold in the garden that needs to be dug up, the dead growth on the bushes that needs to be cut out, and the mound of bird seed that the sparrows and chickadees have been careless with all winter needs to be dug up and smoothed out. Then there’s the pond. I didn’t change the water in it last year and this year it’s as dark and as weedy as strong tea. That doesn’t stop the neighbourhood cats and squirrels from drinking it though. Even our own cats, when they are out in the yard on their long leashes, like to lap at it. Maybe the organic matter in it has brewed over the seasons into a tasty mess. It doesn’t smell very good, though, and it tends to be slimy. That’s why I hate cleaning the pond. Thank god it only has to be done once a year. Most years.

I am winning my fight with the neighbourhood hares. In the winter, according to the testimony of footprints in the snow, they romp in the front yard and dance by moonlight in the backyard. That last phrase is my wife’s. I would never have thought of bunnies dancing. They shit on my lawn, eat my plants, dead or alive, and sometimes sleep in a snow den under the bench in the backyard. Hares and I go back a long way, and never really on the best of terms. When I was in the Arctic doing research for my doctorate, I had a close encounter with a hare. It was out in the tundra, nibbling yellow Arctic poppies, and I wanted to take a picture. (There are no red arctic poppies, as far as I am aware. In fact, in my time there, I saw no red flowering plants at all). The hare had other ideas. It charged me. I took one look at that huge snarling hare and ran for my life. I expect those Arctic poppies have a fair bit of opiate-like properties. In retrospect, it was very Monty Pythonesque, but I wish now I hadn’t told anyone about it. It inspires a dignity-sapping glee I find hard to laugh at.

The hares find that the tender green shoots of my early tulip bulbs are hard to resist, but I didn’t spend hours planting all those bulbs last fall to have them fall prey to bunnies. When I started to notice that they were nibbling the greens and actually digging up bulbs to eat, I sprayed everything with something I got from the garden centre that is supposed to deter them. It’s organic and isn’t supposed to be harmful to the critters. You’d have thought it was like adding spices  -- a bunny flavour boost -- for all the good it did. I finally had to net the gardens. My wife doesn’t think I know, but I saw her Facebook post that said “Bunnies 8, Charles 0”. Well, I am winning now. “Bunnies 8, Charles 0” has become “Bunnies 8, Charles 1”, as in past tense (“ate” and “won”). The netting has worked, and I am about to be rewarded with hot pink tulip blooms and fragrant purple hyacinths.

There’s a bench in the corner of our backyard, by the mother-in-law crabapple tree. We called it that because when we moved in to our new house we had only one tree, the one the builder was obliged to plant in our front yard. Our moms each gave us money for a new tree, and we bought a crabapple. We joke that a crabapple is the perfect tree for our respective mothers-in-law to have bought us, but in reality we both like our mothers-in-law. The bench is the one the bunnies like to sleep under in the winter. In the summer, it is like being in a secret garden. The tree and some bushes screen it from general view, and the early morning sun hits it just right, but you can still hear the water cascading in the pond. I like to take my coffee – we are back to coffee -- there and relax with the paper. Right now, though, in the early spring, it is cool and a bit unpromising as a cozy nook.

Our cats think it looks promising though, and keep trying to reach it despite the fact that their leads are too short to get there. I can’t really blame them; besides the scent of marauding bunny and wandering cats, there are several clumps of catnip that grow here. In the summer, I cut off sprigs of the square-stemmed plant and throw it to them, watching them roll around in catnip-induced ecstasy. Our yard is a bit of heaven for the neighbourhood felines – besides the catnip, there are always flocks of sparrows, chickadees, and other small flying music boxes.  Leo – one of my cats – is sitting there under one of the trees now, looking hopefully at the chickadees that keep just out of reach.  The tip of his black-and-grey striped tail is just twitching.


But it’s still spring, and after being out in the garden for over an hour my hands are cold. I go in and put on the coffee. Today, it will be a compromise. The coffee won’t be stone cold when my wife gets up, but neither will it be super-fresh. That is what the microwave is for. Besides, she doesn’t drink it the right way, that is to say, black. She drinks a coffee latte and even adds sugar, so it probably doesn’t even matter that it is freshly brewed. Hell, I could probably just pour it out of a box and she wouldn’t even notice. “Good morning”. I’m a bit startled, concentrating as I am on pouring the coffee into my espresso cup. She’s not usually up so early. I turn to her, pot in hand. “Coffee?” I ask.

Wednesday, January 4, 2017

My Journey, Part 1

Author's note: This is a true story, as I remember it. It is the story of my battle with leukaemia. Although it is dark, it is still a story of hope. I will also post Part 2 at some point.

My Journey, Part 1

Two Octobers ago, I thought I had a cold. A bad cold. Maybe the flu? I had a fever and I coughed a lot. I took a week off work, and then another. I finally went to the doctor. It was November 5.

She sends me to another doctor, at the Sheldon Chumir Centre. I lie on the hospital bed, with my husband in the chair next to me, as the nurse takes blood. She closes the door and goes away for a long time. Then the door opens and the doctor pokes his head in. “We think you have leukemia” he said, and my world dissolved.

I’ve never been in an ambulance before. Ambulances are unexpectedly bumpy but all I can think of was that I am going to die. The paramedic assures me that leukemia can be treated. I feel numb.

I wait in a hallway, in the stretcher, with the paramedics and about twenty other patients waiting to be admitted. Then they call my name and I am admitted to the cancer ward.  To me cancer means death.

The chemotherapy starts. It is surreal to be hooked up to a bag of chemicals. They give me printed information on each drug in the cocktail. Some have warnings: “Can cause brain damage”. I grow weaker and my hair falls out. The nurse shaves off what is left. My dad shaves his own head in support. My husband comes every day, twice a day. Then I get sicker. I am nauseated. I faint in the shower, then later while brushing my teeth and I hit my head on the toilet. They tell me I “code 66’d”, which means that the intensive care team needs to get involved. I am in bed and a doctor I have never seen before is telling me that they need to operate. My colon has become so infected that I’ve gone into toxic shock. Some if it will need to be removed.

And then I dissolve into delirium and fear….

I am hot. So hot. I am on a sandhill in the Windermere Valley, where I spent my summers as a child, and I want water. The sun is shining and I can see the lake sparkling blue. If I could only get to the lake! But the sand is sticky and is holding me down. Sand arms hold me tightly and wrap me so I can barely breathe. I can hear voices. My sister is talking, but I can’t see to whom. I think it is to my sister-in-law. That’s odd, I think, because she doesn’t live near here. Two creatures, half human and half vulture, appear and strap a bird mask to my face. It crushes my nose and somehow controls my breathing, and I try to get it off but I can’t move. They have taken me from the sandhill and tied me to a post in a nearby field. “It’s for the best”, I hear my sister say.

I am under a square of fabric held down by a wood frame, like a sandbox, half buried in a field. I can hear voices and I try to tell them I am here, I am here but I am hidden, but I can’t speak. The field is peaceful and there are bees. I think to myself, “I can do this. I can get out from under this cloth, I just have to try”, but I can still see the field through the fabric. I can hear voices calling me, but they can’t see me. I go to sleep and when I wake the fabric is gone.

I am in a bed, in a forest full of snow. Two women appear, and they wash my mouth and my nose. It feels wonderfully cool. There is a sound of soft bells and for a few minutes I am reassured. Then they leave and two others appear. These are not angels of mercy but torturers. They wrap up chunks of cheese and place it in my bed, then bring rats and put them under the covers. I can see dead bats too, in the rafters. “You can’t get away from them”, sneers one of the women, and they leave. The rats start to burrow up the covers and I know that soon they will start to feed on me. I am terrified.

The bells start again, soft chimes. I begin to count them. I get to two hundred when it occurs to me that they are chiming because it is Lincoln’s birthday. The big bell in Washington must be chiming, and I must be somewhere near the border because I can hear it. How did I get from Calgary to Ontario, I wonder.

I wake up. It is night, and the soft lights of medical equipment provide a soft glow. A nurse asks if she can wipe the blood from my eyes. I nod yes, and then the world fractures again. I am in a room, and they are composting me. I am buried in dirt and they are harvesting my jewelry, raking through the soil. I am also hungry, so hungry. I am microscopic, and buried in the dirt of the Okanagan, the wine region in British Columbia. I try to grow tiny apples and grapes and harvest them from the soil so I can eat. I bring the technique back to where I am being composted so others can eat, too. People are harvesting tiny fruits all around me, but they don’t satisfy the hunger.

I know there are rescuers trying to get to me. They are waiting, with an inflatable hippo boat, to take me to a cabin in Algonquin Park where the jewel harvesters can’t find me. There are tiny cabins on the waterfront, where Lego people are cooking pancake breakfasts. They are from Calgary, and they are here to help. I can smell the bacon. I am so hungry. Someone asks if they can clean my feeding tube, and I am aware of a tube around my mouth. I try to get it off and to tell them the feeding tube is a mistake, that I have a mouth. I am not an alien, a monster. But I can’t get it off. I find myself lying on the ground outside a cabin, and there is a pair of garden shears. I try to position them to cut off the feeding tube, but I am not strong enough to cut through. “Charles is coming, he will cut them off with his strong geologist’s hands”, I think. He comes, but he can’t get it off either.

I am in Hawaii with Charles. We are seated in a restaurant, but the servers can’t see me, only him. I am frustrated because I am hungry. The blue ring on my finger is mesmerizing, the colour of the tropical ocean, and then suddenly we are on a boat. The boat is fishing for pork, which is hauled out of the bottom of a bay with a beautiful reef. It is tied to the bottom of the boat to salt it. I think “sharks!” but no sharks come. The boat sails around with this huge side of pork dangling from its hull. The water is incredibly blue.

I dream that my brother-in-law is cleaning my house, but he can’t figure out how to close the fridge doors. He instead puts a big quilted grey blanket over the open fridge so the food stays cold. Even though I am in Hawaii, I can see him. I am worried that the cats will tear it down. I go from my kitchen to the restaurant as though they are connected. No one can see me though. It’s as if I am not there. I hear a voice. “The critical thing is that she can breathe on her own once she’s off the respirator, and she is”. Well, that’s good. Good for her, I think. I wonder who they are talking about?

“There she is. She’s focusing”, says a voice. My eyes are blurry but I can see a person. I wonder where I am. My eyes close. I am so tired. My husband’s voice says, “try to focus”, and I do try, but I can’t. The world is blurry and strange. I sleep. When I wake up, I am convinced that I am in a shopping mall. My mother is trying to help me focus by walking past my room with a shopping cart. It’s a game, I think. They are trying to help me wake up and focus by having people I know walk by. There’s my mom again, I’m sure it’s her. Someone else comes into the room. I think it is my sister-in-law, but I can’t focus. Where is Charles? If I think hard enough, I can summon him and he can get me out of this nightmare.

I open my eyes. I can focus. I am in a hospital room and there is lots of equipment around me. I can see a nurse just outside. I can’t talk and don’t know why. Then my husband comes. I am hungry and I try to make him understand that I want dinner. As I can’t talk he gives me a pen and some paper, but somehow I can’t hold the pen very well and I can’t write. I am so frustrated, and so, so hungry. After what seems like hours he seems to understand. “You’re on a feeding tube”, he says. “You are getting what you need”. My stomach rumbles.

Finally I am both awake and lucid. Most of the delirium has passed, The nurse picks me up and puts me in a special chair. I can’t move anything except my neck. I am also extremely swollen. I have rips in the skin of my hands and feet where the skin has broken open from the pressure, and they slowly bleed. I can hear doctors talking, and I realize they are talking about me. They decide the feeding tube can come out. It takes a few hours for it to happen, but when it does, it is bliss. The nurse gives my sister ice chips to feed me and they are delicious, cold and wet. I crave more, and the nurse consults with the doctors. He gives my husband a popsicle to feed me. It is acid green and I can’t hold it, but my husband holds it so I can suck on it. It is an explosion in my mouth, a sensual feast of cold and tangy. Each suck is better than the last. When it is finished, I almost cry. I want another one but they tell me I can’t have one just yet.

I am transferred to a regular ward. I am not strong enough to press the nurse call button, so they rig up an emergency call button that is as soft as cotton to press. I can manage that. I can’t however lift anything, feed myself, or even brush my teeth, let alone roll over or walk. I learn that I spent almost three weeks in the ICU on a respirator and feeding tube, and that I have something called critical illness weakness. The muscles just become mush and don’t work anymore. They don’t know why it happens, but it happens to some people. I create a mantra for myself to say when I panic. I am safe, I am loved, I am getting better. Still, I worry that there will be a fire and I won’t be able to escape, especially at night.

Not that night means sleep in a hospital. There is always light, bells going off, people walking in and out of the room. I wonder if patients get post-traumatic stress disorder. One doctor comes in every morning at 6:00 am to examine me. Nurses take blood samples at 5:00 am. Do people get better in hospitals?

To get me from the bed into a chair, they use a hydraulic lift, like a baby whale being transferred to or from an aquarium. I dream of being able to walk again and sometimes wake up in tears, frustrated that I can’t move. Many dreams feature me running, although I have nightmares almost daily. The physiotherapists come almost every day. They have something called a sit-to-stand machine that helps train me to be able to stand up. Before I can even do that, they need to help me to be able to sit alone, unaided, on the edge of the bed. This takes about a week. Using the machine is incredibly hard, and I vomit most days after using it. A weighted sling is positioned under my butt, and I have to try to stand up using some of the weight as an aid. It takes two physiotherapists, one to make sure I don’t fall, and one to control the ballast to the machine. Eventually I can “stand” almost unaided, and I graduate to trying to walk. I take my first eight steps, with a walker, and it is a major victory. I am exhausted. My family applauds via text message. It seems like much further. I graduate to 64 steps later that week. It’s early February. I’ve been here three months.

Over the next month, I am wheeled to the gym almost every day in my wheelchair. The physiotherapists there try to get me to walk. The parallel bars help me once I have stood up, and the wheelchair is always just a step behind should I fall. In about a week, I can walk several lengths of the parallel bars. When I am back in my hospital room, I try to walk around the ward with the help of my walker and my husband who pushes the wheelchair behind me. Walking is crucial but so is learning to climb stairs. I have stairs at home, and I won’t be able to go home even on a day pass until I can demonstrate I can climb at least four stairs.

In the gym, once I have practiced walking with the parallel bars, they now take me to the practice stairs. The weight of a human body is more than I would have thought, even though I have lost about 35 pounds and only weigh around 100 pounds. It is almost impossible to go up and down four stairs. Eventually I manage it. I am rewarded with a day pass home.

I am bundled into the car. I just manage the transfer between wheelchair and car, which the physiotherapists have taught me how to do. Every bump in the car is agony, my body is so weak. I have no muscles to protect me. I start to cry as we reach my street. In order to get into the house, I have to get up the four stairs in the garage. My feet weigh more than they did at the hospital, since it is winter and I am now wearing boots. I can’t lift my foot high enough to make the first step because of the added weight. I have to take off both boots and coat in order to struggle up the steps. I just make it, and am crying with pain and relief when the door closes behind me.

I am so happy to be home! I haven’t seen my three cats in four months, and I cry again when they come to rub themselves against me. I am just able to make it to the couch, where I will spend much of my time over the next few months, whenever I am allowed out of hospital. The first thing I notice is how quiet it is. No bells, no voices, no throb of the hospital pump. It is a feast of silence.

About four weeks later, I am discharged from hospital to await my bone marrow transplant. An anonymous donor, a perfect match, has been found, and I will get the transplant in May. In the meantime, I have almost eight blessed weeks at home before being re-admitted to hospital. But I am alive. Hope springs eternal.

End of part one of my journey.


Tuesday, January 3, 2017

The Butterfly Effect

Author's Note: This is really my sister-in-law's story, even though I wrote it. It is a work in progress.

The Butterfly Effect

They say that the flap of a butterflies’ wing can change the weather. Something so small, so quick, and so fragile that the very act of motion sends the exquisite insect fluttering on the breeze instead of soaring like a bird, and it turns out it is amazingly powerful. It’s part of a field of study known as “chaos theory”, something I can’t claim to be fully conversant with, but my husband might. He teaches mathematics at the local high school. I may not be a brilliant mathematician, but I have come to have my own theory about the butterfly effect. My theory involves life, and death, and metamorphoses, but it begins very simply, with my childhood love of a book.

I opened the cover. The imaginary but nonetheless real scent of sea salt and myrtle leaves arose from the printed pages. I could taste the salt and recognize the oily, pungent fragrance of what I thought myrtle would smell like.  Lemon, with a hint of something much less sweet.  Harrowsmith isn’t close to the ocean, nor had I ever seen a myrtle bush. But when my ten-year-old self opened Misty of Chincoteague, I was no longer in our old limestone farmhouse on Henderson Road, but on the Virginia shore with Paul and Maureen Beebe. On Chincoteague and Assateague islands, where the wild ponies grazed proud, wild, and free on the salt flats.

The memory was strong as I looked around our bed-and-breakfast on Chincoteague Island. The 1848 Island Manor House had been kind enough to indefinitely post-pone our original reservation. We -- my husband Pat and I -- had been planning a trip to Chincoteague to celebrate my 50th birthday. Then tragedy struck. My mom, the person who taught me to bake pies, who would brush my long hair and who was, well, my mom, was diagnosed with ALS, Lou Gehrig’s disease, and it came on fast.

The family gathered at her bedside in the hospital, their ranks swelled by friends and family who had been in the area to celebrate my niece’s wedding. My sister brought in the chrysalis of a monarch butterfly for mom to watch. She’d collected it on a walk by her cottage in Frontenac County, and brought in the milkweed essential for it to live, too. Mom had lost most of her ability to speak by then, but she would look at the jar with its chrysalis, and we hoped it would remind her of happier times when we were kids on the farm. When she was whole, surrounded by her family and friends, and dispensing her wisdom to those who came to seek her advice on everything from baking to babies. We had the house that everyone visited. When we were really young, we would pick her bouquets of dandelions or mayflowers, and she would put our weedy-but-bright offering in a swan-shaped vase on the table for everyone to admire.

My mom is the bravest woman I know. On September 1 that year, she chose to be disconnected from the ventilator that allowed her to breathe, in the full knowledge that she would not be able to breathe on her own. She chose to die. She did it surrounded by her family and, I hope, feeling the blanket of love, comfort, and longing we tried to weave for her. Through my tears, I saw that the chrysalis in the jar was gone. In its place was a magnificent monarch butterfly, gently testing its damp wings. Metamorphoses. What was death, after all, but the evolution of existence? Hello, mom, I whisper in my head. You’re beautiful.

And now, two years later, here we were on Chincoteague. We drive down from Kingston, the trip taking a couple of days. We talk about everyday things, like going back to work, but also about bigger things, like what we hope to achieve in the rest of our lives. We talk about legacy: What it means, and what we want ours to be. How we want to leave the world a better place than we found it. We are both schoolteachers, so we see how much influence teachers have on lives. But I didn’t want to rest there. My legacy, I decide, also has to do with happiness. Recognizing it when it appears, however elusive it is or how tiny it might seem. When my mom died, I’d felt as if colour had somehow been bleached from my life. I was living in a world of sepia. What made me happy? Because if I wasn’t happy, how could I expect to create a positive legacy?

We rent bikes so we can cycle to Assateague Island. As we leave, an artist is on the front step, painting one of the two graceful neo-classical columns that supported the deck overhead and provided the Manor House with welcome shade. The pattern of vines and purple flowers is lovely against the base colour of white. We set out, intent on the ponies and fulfilling a childhood dream. Misty, here I come, I think.

The ponies don’t seem to mind people. We find them everywhere, grazing by the side of the road and on the beach. In fact, some seem quite interested in us. One light-brown-and-cream stallion is as interested in Pat as Pat is in him, a kind of horse-human “bromance”. I take pictures of them together, of Pat taking pictures of the stallion. We sit on the beach to listen to the waves breaking hypnotically on the sand, and visit the lighthouse. Happiness seems close here. If I close my eyes and just be, I can feel its butterfly wings touch my face.

On the way back to our lodging, we stop at a gift shop. I want to buy something small to remind me of our trip on some cold winter morning in Ontario, when happiness seems a little further away, dancing on sunbeams in the south and not on snow crystals on my windshield when I am late for work. I pick up a calendar featuring the horses on Assateague, and I notice a wondrous thing: the stallion that had connected with Pat has a name: Legacy.

We cycle back to the Manor, thinking and talking about both our legacy and Legacy, contented with our day. As we reach the portico, I go to examine the work the artist has completed. I catch my breath. My heart beats a little faster. This morning’s work has been finished, but it’s not just a vine with purple flowers. The artist has added a butterfly. A monarch butterfly. She is here, I say in my head. Mom is here.

Next day, the artist is back to finish a few small details. I learn that her name is Diane. I tell her about my Mom, and how marvelous it was to come back to a Monarch butterfly. She listens intently. Then she tells me that when she was finished painting the flowers and vines, she thought that it needed something more. First, she thought of a hummingbird. But all of a sudden, the thought of a Monarch butterfly came fully formed into her head, and she knew for certain that was what she had to paint. “Your mom put that thought in my head”, she said. “She was here”.


I think it was Thoreau who wrote that happiness is like a butterfly. The more you chase it, the more it will evade you. But if you notice the other things around you, it will come and gently sit on your shoulder. Happiness is a way of ordering chaos. For me, it’s the butterfly effect.

Monday, October 10, 2016

I think I am water

(I wrote part of this story some time ago, and have been thinking about turning part of it into a book. Would love some comments!)

I think I am water.  Fluid, solid, vapour, always changing, perpetually moving.  Water is both enigmatic and vital to life; does water understand itself?  Molecular, the essence of everything alive; terrifying, the tsunami that takes life; gentle, the rain that gives life, lying in lakes and flowing through rivers, gathering in secret underground caverns.  Two molecules, hydrogen and oxygen, in an electron dance.     

Water shouldn’t be a liquid; that is, not at normal temperatures.  Everything around it on the periodic table, like nitrogen, or phosphorus, produces a gas when combined with hydrogen.  But not oxygen; the positive charge of the hydrogen and the negative charge of the oxygen produces such a strong electrical attraction that the molecules, instead of repelling each other, cling tightly.  It shouldn’t be a liquid.  But it is.

Water runs through my life like a stream, tumbling from the mountains to lie in shadowed pools, rippling down under sun and wind where, with the brilliance of diamonds, it dazzles the eye; limpid at dawn and deep, still and watchful at night with its necklace of stars or shroud of cloud.  Rising to heaven as a breath, falling with the weeping of clouds or soft feathers of snow, stinging barbs of beautiful ice.

The zodiac, the circle of animals which the ancients thought to govern our lives from birth to death, tells me I am an earth sign.  Born in May, Taurus the bull is one of the three earth signs that cluster around the vernal equinox.  Earth, water, fire and air, these are the four elements that were believed to be the primal ingredients of everything, although I believe the Chinese added a fifth, that of metal.  The earth signs and the water signs are supposed to be mutually beneficial, the one fertilizing the other and bringing stability and life.  But it is wrong.

Strangely simple and weirdly complex.  Changing with the weather, clinging tightly to its relationships.  I think I am water.


Water is essential to all known life.  My life, certainly.  I was not born in water, not the first, physical birth when I was pushed, yellow-faced and wailing, into the world; but water is purifying and the means of rebirth.  Don’t take my word for it; certainly the Christians think so, as the take care to baptize their children and followers.  So do the Hindus, the Jews, and the Sikhs.  In Islam, the dead or washed in ritual baths which are meant, I suppose, to give a rebirth into a new life.  The Bible says that “the earth was formed out of water and by water”.  That’s nothing new; mythologies and religions for time out of mind have believed that water and the world were created together.

The aborigines of Australasia believed (may still yet) that water was created at the same time as the world; the Rainbow Snake, a spirit, symbolized the water without which life could not continue.  It was rain, storms, waterholes, but most of all it was fertility and creation of life.  The female snake was the creator; the male Rainbow Snake the transformer of the land.  In Meso-America, the was Ttaloc, god of rain, and his consort, Chalchiuhtlicue, goddess of rivers, lakes and springs.  Mesopotamians had Enki, the virile god of fresh water, whose realm was a vast ocean of water beneath the ground, the existence of which was vital to life.  Many native Americans hold that water came first, and only an earth-diver bringing up a small amount of mud from deep below the waves created the world.

They say I could swim before I could walk.  I know this is not true, but I wish it were.  It would give credence to my theory.  Water had such and attraction that I would play with it, pouring it from one old tin cooking pot to another for hours.  They would coo that I would be a great cook some day, but they were mistaken; it was not the pots that entranced me but the magic that flowed from one place to another, the sound of it splashing, the spray that would touch my face as I sat on the grass on a hot summer’s day, in the shade, with my pink bonnet – no, yellow, I am sure it was yellow, it is so hard to say for certain in these old black and white photos – and diapers, a smile on my face and a yell for anyone who tried to take the pots and the magic away.

I remember toddling down to the waters edge, unseen, down the water-steps and onto the rocky shore, wanting to be embraced by the cool green ripples that lapped my feet.  I plunged in, only to sink, infuriatingly, stone-like, being pulled out by a frantic parent.  Two things happened at this time; a small green picket fence was erected between the lawn and the sharp drop to the water’s edge (although for some reason, they did not bar the steps), and I was given swimming lessons.  I had no fear.  Unlike others, who live as all of us do on this planet, this blue-green planet of mostly water, who fear water, I had none.

I spent hours in the water, once I had passed the waterwing stage, paddling on a small Styrofoam surfboard in the shallows of the lake, watching minnows dart over the sand and seaweed, even netting a few in my small net, but only for an instant before letting them go.  Dip, capture, observe, release, that was the routine.  When I got older I would dive from our float in the lake to the bottom and, through the murky green, see mussels on the bottom and sometimes glimpse a bigger fish, maybe a trout, flicking through the seaweed. 

I didn’t always live at the lake.  The fall, winter and spring or more directly, the school year, were spent in the city.  The community pool saw me frequently, either in lessons or in play, holding my breath on the bottom as long as I could, doing backflips, or jumping of the diving board into the deep pool.  Its chlorinated depths and strange blue colour could never completely replace the cold, slightly fishy attraction of the lake.

Later, our house had a pool, a big one that languished, unused, when we made our way to the cottage in the summer to the living water of the lake.  In the spring, when the ice had melted, rotted and then sunk, we would put our toes in and pull them back, sharply, at the cold, longing for the warm currents of summer.  May 24th, the official start of summer in Canada, would see only slightly warmer temperatures, but I would plunge in nevertheless, running to shore blue and shivering, to the warmth of my brightly coloured towel, the colour of which was as warm as the looped cotton.  It was a rite of passage from one year to the next, my own personal fiscal year.  Every year, I was the first of my family to swim and the last one, come September, to stop.

In between, I was a fish.  In the early morning I would wake, often well before the rest of the family, and slip into the cold, still, early morning water, hoping the sun would strike the raft with a warming ray as I sat there.  In the afternoon, the lake would be alive with people and boats, swimming, waterskiing, even parasailing.  It was exciting when, once a year, a big paddle-wheeler would come down the lake, a relic of the distant past.

On sunny days, I would alternate between the latest book (progressing from Nancy Drew to Anne of Green Gables to The Lord of the Rings and beyond – I struck out on James Michener’s Chesapeake when I was only 12, being wholly overwhelmed by the massive prose, but it was an ambitious attempt) and the water, getting a terrific tan in the process.  In those days, which I recall with a fear of skin-cancer, I hope that the sun was less strong and the ozone stronger, but these are the cares of today.  I didn’t know what ozone was in the early 1970’s, and I am sure no-one else in my life did either.   I would slather myself with baby oil, put lemon-juice in my hair, and turn myself over on my towel at twenty minute intervals to avoid getting burned.  Inevitably, I was dark brown by early July, showing brilliant white patches of skin where my bathing suit straps covered my skin.  My mother called me her Little Indian.  Things were simpler in those days.

On rainy days I would sit on the screened verandah, wrapped in a towel or blanket, and read on the old red couch that sat outside the living room, wedged between the chest freezer, the fishing tackle, the water-skis and old life jackets.  I do not know its provenance, nor, so many years later, its demise, but it was a throne of imagination to me as I devoured books on its damp and somewhat prickly cushions.  The best time for rain, though, was at night.  I would lie in my bed, in my squashy purple sleeping bag if the bed was still too damp from the winter, in the room I shared with my two sisters, and listen to the rain on the roof.  It wasn’t a tin roof, so it wasn’t a loud, ringing thunder, but the roof was close overhead, and rain would thrum compellingly on the wooden shingles while the drip from the overhang played counterpoint outside the open window; the smell of rain, that peculiar, elusive and yet unmistakable scent, drifting in.  The train would rumble by on the other side of the lake, its whistle almost the last thing I would hear before falling into the careless sleep of the young.  Today I live where I can sometimes hear the train whistle blow, and it has an immediate comforting effect on me, twenty-five years on.  How strong is the memory of sounds and smells.

Barring sunny, hot days, my favourite, almost perversely, were the stormy days.  There was a certain recipe that must be followed to achieve perfection; it must be afternoon; it must be windy, stormily so, and there could be some rain, although not blinding.  There could not be lightening, as there so often was, as the storms that whip down that valley in the summer often bring lightening and thunder (that was best for night, when the electricity would go out and we would site by the windows and watch the purple sheet lightening blaze across the valley and light the mountains with witchlight), and if there was lightening, then my mother would not allow me to throw myself into the whitecaps as I loved to do, battling the lake, diving over and around and through the waves, letting them buffet me.  I would pretend I was a porpoise or a dolphin, leaping over the waves and crashing back down.  Under the waves, there was a calm, a not-quite-silence and an absence of the physical forces that raged just above.

In the late afternoon, any wind that had come up earlier in the day would calm, leaving the lake, if it were sunny, a brilliant canvas of moving sparkles.  I would sit on the old swing and watch it, swinging as high as I could kick myself, the smooth silver of the old board beneath me, holding the rough sisal rope tightly between my hands.  The swing terrified my mother, who was afraid the two old trees that held it would break with my terrific pendulum swings, but they were more than a match for my under one hundred pound body.  I would sit and swing there for the hour before dinner, and once dinner was over, would be back until I felt woozy.  The water was fascinating to watch from here, the water and the life it supported.  Boats, especially sailboats, were magical at this time of day; the sails would be outlined on their bed of liquid diamond, a darker triangle of shadow scudding across the waves.  Closer to shore, ducks would paddle by, diving occasionally for something in the shallows.  I would swing and dream about letting go, over the water, like a rope on a tree, but this never happened; the swing was a good ten feet from the edge of the water, even if there hadn’t been a row of willows overhanging the lake at that point.  When we were very small, there had been a rope tree, over at the sandhill; we would swing out from the trunk of the big pine tree, let go, then tumble all the way down on the soft yielding sand as far as the water if we wanted.  I remember when the lot was sold, to make way for condominiums; we were running down the road for the sandhill when suddenly I was stopped by a ream of barbed wire I hadn’t seen.  Luckily, the wire cut me just above and just under my eyes, and not actually in my eyes, although it hurt well enough as it was.  It was the first time that the world as I knew it altered perceptibly.  Barbed wire when there should be none; no access to our sand hill, for it was of course ours, by right of use and exploration.  Or so I thought.

We had a shower, but I disdained to use it.  Instead I would shampoo my hair as needed in the lake (again, it was a simpler world; I did not know about the affects of detergents in the water supply), diving to dissolve and disperse the suds.  The Uncle would soap his chest hair, not having much on top, and, after doing his Abominable Snowman impression, would also submerge.  As a child I thought it funny.  Later I would notice the water pipe on the bottom of the lake from where we got our tap water and think about the years of Breck and Body On Tap that went into the water with some concern.  As we kids we would drink the tap water, unconcerned about taste or the microbes that would scare our Brita-filtered world today.  But we also had a pump, one that we shared with our neighbours, which pumped out fresh spring water at the top of our hill.

Sometimes it was my job – more often than not, but I was an obedient child – to take the old plastic water jug and fill it from the pump.  I could only do this once I was big enough (about 6 or 7, I think) to work the handle and prime it before the water would spout out, hitting a small stone basin if I didn’t catch it in the jug, and running over the ground – patchy grass – and down the hill towards the neighbour’s house.  It never got there, of course, the stream of water being quite small and the house quite far away.  I liked to go to the pump; it meant that I would take the jug, then make a flying leap over the grate in the floor (the cottage was an old one, built right over the ground, and had a vent in the hallway the purpose of which was, I think, to help eliminate damp and mold from rotting the floor), run to the screen door, which would open and shut with a characteristic creak, swing, bang!, leap up the two stone steps under the overhang that held the sign saying “WestWinds” (the name my grandfather had given the place), up the path that went up the hill next to some of my favourite trees, the three small crabapples that sat next to The Aunt’s washing line, past Snore Haven (where my grandparents slept, a small one-room cottage with two beds and a hot plate), past the woodshed and finally to the crest of the hill and the pump.  The top of the hill was open from the many trees that hugged the rest of the property, and was usually sunny; so sunny that The Uncle used to call it Miami.  As a child, I didn’t know what that referred to, and if anyone asked I would have told them that it simply meant “the sunny place on the hill”.  There were a preponderance of ant-hills here, small ones, for the tiny black ants whose population was probably in the millions.  The pump sat almost in the full sunshine of Miami, but not quite.  Once full and the small bushes next to the pump had been watered (many plants grew poorly in the dry and sandy soil of the Columbia Valley) I would make the journey in reverse, more sedately to avoid spilling the water, until the water was safely ensconced in the fridge.

One of my favourite things to do was watch my mother do the laundry.  I loved washing day.  That she hated it, I didn’t know until later; I thought the old wringer washer (obsolete even then) was the last word in marvelous.  We would fill it with a small green hose, bright green transparent plastic, and add the clothing. It would smell humid and soapy, and mother would wipe the perspiration from her forehead with the back of her arm, and sigh.  She would let me hold the hose as the tub filled; the green plastic warm in my hand as the warm water streamed out.  I felt as if I were doing a service to my family by helping with the laundry; I see now that I was probably an added worry, an annoyance or a nuisance to a hassled mother with three small children to care for.  The wringer was the coolest part; once the clothes had been agitated and the white enamel tub drained, the water had to be squeezed from the clothing.  The wringer swung over the tub, and my mother, more than once, had to prevent my hands from going through the wringer too.  The clothes would be hung on the line to dry with wooden clothes pegs.  Ours was a square line, with several strings forming a square on a metal base, as opposed to the single laundry line of The Aunt’s on the other side of the property.  It was good if it was hot, or warm and windy, because the clothes would dry fast; but if the wind picked up and a certain cast to the clouds and sky came, that meant rain, and we would hurry out to get in the clothes before they were drenched all over again.  If this happened, my mother would swear; not rudely, but vehemently.  One got the picture at any rate.  “Sugar in a rag!” she would exclaim.  I think it took me many more years than other small children would have taken to figure out what exactly she meant by that; even as an adult, I have an alarming propensity to the literal. 

Water levels would rise and fall with the seasons, and with the years.  Some years would see the water level rise almost to the top of our retaining wall, about seven feet, and the waves would lap the grass at the edge of the lawn.  I remember The Uncle taking a picture of my grandmother, on her 80th birthday, and placing her at the edge of the retaining wall where a wave came up, almost over, and splashed her in her pretty blue dress with the pink carnation.  Despite this, the picture I remember has her smiling, her grey hair carefully coiffed but her dress moving in the breeze.  At these times, when the water was high, I would overhear worried conversations about the strength of the retaining wall, and what we should do if the cottage were flooded, but the waters never rose that far, as if the wall were the edge of its possibility curve; thus far, and no further, said a famous general once, I believe.  I loved it, as it meant one could dive from the wall directly into the water, and pull oneself out the same way.

Other years the water was low, so low that there would be a small rocky beach once you had descended the water steps, hard on the feet as you stumbled into the water; in these years, The Uncle would pay the young brood of cousins to pluck the stones from the sand, a penny a bucket, in the hopes of creating a sandy paradise on our stretch of shore.  When later, in university, I was to learn about water currents, beaches and storm beaches, I laughed at the optimism that had him pay even so paltry a sum to change what would never change, never could change.  It was all in the water. Every day that we would clear tens upon tens of buckets, and he would drag in sand from the sand hill across the road, the next day would see just as many small pebbles and just as little sand as before we began the day before.  But at five you don’t think of these things; you think that ten buckets of pebbles will buy five pieces of chewing gum from the store in the town, where the proprietor called you The Bubble Gum Kids and would throw in an extra piece of double-bubble when you gave him your dime.  Today, if you saw a dime on the ground, I bet you wouldn’t pick it up.  I bet I wouldn’t either.

Have you ever skinny-dipped?  If you haven’t, you will not know the delicious, sinful pleasure of water on no-longer-hidden skin, the feeling that the world has changed, just slightly, but what has really happening is that you are experiencing a shift in your perception of the world.  Cool wet silk caresses skin hidden not by fabric but by darkness.   My mother would, every once in a while when the moon was blue, suggest that we go skinny dipping, and we, my two sisters and I, would creep down to the shore in the darkness, our nakedness covered by our towels, no longer screaming with colour but blank in the dark.  The towels would slide to the ground and we would scamper into the water.  As we got older, these episodes would only occur when the older Boy Cousins were not there, although I doubt if I noticed at the time.  The small bugs that congregate over the water at night would crowd our mouths and noses, and we would inadvertently swallow one now and again.  Turning on our backs, the stars crowded the sky, the thick band of the Milky Way clearly visible, unlike in any town, the small white circles of our breasts breaking the tension of the water.  We would swim to the raft but not get out, holding it as we treaded water and looked up.  Occasionally we would see a satellite making its determined and swift way across the heavens, and sometimes, as when we were at the right time of season for the Leonids, shooting stars would blaze swiftly.  Getting out was hardest as, cold and naked, we swam to shore and mother would dole out towels too slowly for our tastes.  I remember getting caught, at the age of sixteen, by the lights of a car at the public beach two cottages down, as a car full of young men drove up, headlights flashing, preventing me from swimming back to shore from behind the raft to the safety of my towel.  I know now that, at sixteen, I should not have worried about being ridiculed for my young, strong and lithe body, but shame is a powerful idea among us all. 

I remember the last swim I took in the lake.  It was late summer, and there were rumours that the cottage was to be sold.  A family dispute between my father and The Uncle.  I couldn’t quite believe it.  I dove under the waves, made warm by the August days, and felt the water slide by like a baptism, a reaffirmation of life and love and promise.  Little did I know it was a ritual bathing of the dead, getting me ready for the next life.  Life, phase one, was over.

Have you ever seen water crawl up a straw without any visible force acting on it?  This is because water sticks to itself, because it has what is known as cohesion.  The water sticks to the sides of the tube, then pulls some more of itself up on top, and the process is repeated until the water in the tube gets to be heavy enough that gravity can pull it back down.  Whoever said that blood was thicker than water was right, but they likely did not take into consideration the cohesion of water.  It might not be thick, but it is powerful for all that.



Monday, September 12, 2016

The Reading List: Summer 2016

My reading over the past three or four months has gotten diverted by my Netflix habits (17 seasons of Midsomer Murders and currently indulging in season two of my new favourite, Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries.)

But I have managed to read a few things that might interest any of you wanting a good read. As you may have noticed, I've been pre-occupied lately with murder mysteries, but I managed to get to at least three books from other genres.

The Nest, by Cynthia D'Aprix Sweeney

The Age of Miracles, by Karen Thompson-Walker

Both of these were recommendations from my sister,and I enjoyed both. The Age of Miracles was a bit dark, I thought, but as my sister pointed out, really quite hopeful because of the adaptive abilities of people in the long run.

Inspector Lynley Series, by Elizabeth George:

  1. A Great Deliverance
  2. Payment in Blood
  3. Well Schooled in Murder
  4. A Suitable Vengeance
  5. For the Sake of Elena
  6. Missing Joseph
  7. Playing for the Ashes
  8. In the Presence of the Enemy
  9. Deception on his Mind
  10. In Pursuit of the Proper Sinner
  11. A Traitor to Memory
  12. A Place of Hiding
  13. With No One As Witness
  14. What Came Before He Shot Her
  15. Careless in Red
  16. This Body of Death

I find that the Inspector Lynley series is addictive, despite the length of the books, which can run to many hundreds of pages...although some, as always, are better than others. I have a soft spot for DS Barbara Havers, although I want to clean her house and get her a good haircut.

I am currently in the middle/starting of two other books:

Gathering Moss: A Natural and Cultural History of Mosses, by Robin Wall Kimmerer

A Great Reckoning, by Louise Penny (Inspector Gamache series)

I am also psyched to learn that the new Alan Bradley novel in the Flavia de Luce series is about to be released (September 20th), Thrice the Brinded Cat Hath Mew'd. I'll be loading that on my Kindle as soon as possible, Flavia being one of the great child detectives in literature, right up there with Harriet the Spy...one of my childhood favourites.

Happy reading!

Saturday, September 10, 2016

Hello, Mr. Harper

(Note: Hello Mr. Harper is based on a true story, but is the product of my own imagination as I have not-- to date -- mastered the art of mind-reading).

The greatest Prime Minister in Canadian history lives down the street. His house is just five houses down and across the street, so I can see his front door when I go outside to get the paper. Not that my wife would agree.  She isn’t so far left that she would vote NDP, but I am certain she voted for that Liberal imp, that scion of that west-hating, national energy program propagator, may there be warts-on-the-tongue-of-your-firstborn, Pierre Elliott Trudeau. If you ask me, those ads were right; he just isn’t ready. I am not sure how I ended up with a leftist wife, but there it is. We can’t always chose who we love.

Every morning, when I get the paper, I glance nonchalantly down the street, hoping to catch a glimpse of him. Not that he is Prime Minister anymore, The Scion of Evil having prevailed, Prime Minister Just…no, I can’t even say it. He still has RCMP protection though, to judge by the black sedans that are often idling in the street. But usually, it’s just me, a little disheveled in my housecoat, and my cat. He  -- my cat -- likes to come out with me to get the paper and feel the breeze, smell the rabbits that nibble on god knows what on our lawn all winter. His whiskers gently vibrate as he tests the air. He isn’t an outside cat, another restriction of my leftist wife. And I think there is a city bylaw too, but if I can blame it on Liberal politics I will.

My wife doesn’t approve of me getting the paper in my housecoat.  I don’t think she’d care if the paper was on the front step, but it never is. I’ve seen the guy who delivers it, early in the morning, and he tosses it on the driveway from the comfort of his car. Of course, she’d really prefer I gave up the paper altogether and got my news online, but I love reading the paper in the morning with my coffee. It’s like time stands still, flipping the pages slowly and reading yesterday’s news. I like to get up early, before I wake her, so I can luxuriate in newsprint.

I dream of what I would say, should I see him one morning. “Hello, Mr. Harper!” I’d wave, casually, and turn away. But he’s a savvy man. He would be able to tell at a glance that he and I are the same, Conservatives to the core, and he would take a few steps in my direction. “Nice morning!” He’d say, and then we’d chat some more, after I’d magically floated the five houses down the block and across the street. Physics says that space and time can bend when the gravity of a body is strong enough, so this could happen, because Mr. Harper is like a small sun. We’d part on a handshake, knowing that we’d chat again tomorrow morning.

I’ve actually met him before, briefly, when we were both students. While president of the UBC campus Conservatives, I shook the hands of the great Conservative politicians Joe Clark and Jean Charest.  I’ve never shaken the hand of Mr. Harper, but we do have ties. He is a good friend of a friend of mine, and he did his master’s degree at the University of Calgary at the same time I did my doctorate. It makes us practically frat brothers.

Yesterday I was waiting in the driveway for my wife, car ready to go. She’s a bit disabled these days, and can’t drive on her own, so I chauffeur as needed. I am just sitting there, waiting, when I glance in the rearview mirror. There’s a guy, in black and a hat, shuffling by the end of the driveway. I don’t pay too much attention, but then a black car also passes, going slowly. I look up and watch, and yes! The man in black turns in at His House. I just missed saying hello to Mr. Harper. I am a bit crushed. My wife gets in the car, and I tell her I’ve just seen Mr. Harper but didn’t realize it until it was too late. She might be Liberal, but she knows this would have meant a lot to me. “I’m sorry, sweetie”. I think about it all the way to the hospital. It’s a missed opportunity, and it throws a grayish tinge over the rest of the day.

For the next few weeks, I keep a sharp eye out. He’s not always there, Mr. Harper. Sometimes I suppose he must go to Ottawa. He’s still a sitting MP, after all, although it must be hard for him to go from Prime Minister to backbench. It’s hard enough for me to watch. Not that I really watch the news these days. My leftist wife spends a lot of her time watching the news, listening to Power and Politics as she recovers from cancer treatments. I didn’t like the previous host, but Rosie Barton seems OK. I am a bit suspicious though, since my wife also likes her. My wife says she’s tough on everyone, but it is just possible Rosie is a closet lefty. Fortunately, I am rarely home when it is on. I also must work.

It’s a cool grey day. My cat – his name is Leo, which my wife tells me is supposed to be short for Leonardo de Vinci, but which was too long for everyday – is practically dancing in his eagerness to go out to get the paper. All I do is call, “Little guy! Time to get the paper!” and he comes running. He’s a smart cat. It’s a good thing doorknobs are round, or he’d be able to get in and out on his own. A lack of opposable thumbs is all that is holding him back. I pick him up, adjusting my housecoat as I go so it doesn’t flap open in the wind. I mean, I do wear boxer shorts, but still. The paper – we get two, actually – is at the end of the driveway. I pad down and bend to pick it up.

“Nice cat”. I hadn’t even noticed the guy walking along the sidewalk, almost right in front of my house. It is Mr. Harper! I do a small dance, in my head. In reality, my feet stay firmly on the cool pavement. I’d forgotten he likes cats, even though (for some unintelligible reason) it’s almost the only thing my wife likes about him. “He likes to get out, does he?” I smile cautiously, but that doesn’t mean much. Most of my smiles are cautious. My wife calls it the “family grimace” since most of my family has the same reaction upon being faced with a camera. Selfie sticks are wasted on us, although might I point out that someone called Justin probably has a few to spare should we ever need to get one. I manage a nod and a brusque “Good morning. Yes, he does”, before the greatest Prime Minister ever continues his walk down the street.


When my wife finally gets out of bed and stumbles down for her café au lait, I make it for her and create a big smile in the foam. At least, she thinks it’s a smile. When you turn the cup 90 degrees, it’s a big Conservative “C”. It’s going to be a great day.

Friday, September 2, 2016

Dear Dingo


I've been trying to write a few short stories -- here is one based on our tip to Australia in 2008. 


The outback. Crocodiles, snakes, spiders. Baby-snatching dingoes. Too much heat. Too little water. This fiercely beautiful land is designed to kill you. Dear dingo, don’t snatch me at Ayer’s Rock.

The red centre of an island continent, the sandstone monolith is a stone dropped in the middle of the desert like a pebble in a pond, creating carnelian ripples of sandy soil. We disembark into the shimmering air and feel the heat envelop us like a dryer-hot blanket. An annoyance of flies swarms around our faces. It is ten o’clock in the morning at Uluru, and it is already nearing 40 degrees Celsius.

We booked a dinner in the outback: The Sounds of Silence promises local specialities, an unparalleled view of Ayer’s Rock in the setting sun, and of the southern night sky. I hope we might see a dingo, but at a distance. Ayer’s Rock and dingoes are entangled in my mind, twin signposts of danger and destination. I hope we don’t see snakes. I dress in cotton pants, sandals, and a light jacket, and take my netted hat to guard against flies.

Sparkling wine and canapés greet us. Our group of forty meanders from the bus to the clearing where the dinner is set, admiring the sunset. The light surfs the reddish-brown sand with a molten wave. We are golden in the long rays of the setting sun, and look better for it. Lines are smoothed, skin perfected. We glow. Dear dingo, where are you? Has the sun or the sand gilded your golden-red fur?

We hold hands as we finish our sparkling wine. There are very few flies, and a few grasshopper-like bugs in the sparse vegetation of the desert. We can hear them, a small rustling song in the desert scrub. Chirp, chirp. The smell of roasting meats lures us on. We find seats at the white-clothed tables, ready for our dinner of kangaroo and crocodile. Our glasses are refilled, this time with cool, sweet white wine. I take a sip and sit back with a sigh of anticipation, listening to the grasshoppers (chirp, chirp) and the sound of laughter. Dear dingo, I don’t see you. Do you dream of cool water or of sweet white wine?

As each table seats eight, we introduce ourselves to those who sit down next to us. “Nice to meet you. I’m Elizabeth, from Canada”. We go through a slow, polite dance of introductions, walking around the table to shake hands with everyone.  And although they all say it’s nice to meet me, we settle down in our original places and continue to talk primarily to the person with whom we arrived. It is a Jane Austen country-dance in the outback, minus the lace and the eighteenth-century manners and with more than a bit of ankle on display. As Mr. Darcy observes, every savage can dance. Dear dingo, you are not here. Are you dancing in the desert?

“Ooh!’ A woman at a nearby table has given a short, sharp cry. We look around, but we don’t see anything amiss. We resume our conversation. “Ooh!” Another woman, at another table, emits the same sharp cry. I wonder if this is a prelude to a show, put on by actors for the benefit of the guests. I’ve been to a show like this, where opera singers are planted in the midst of patrons, and the man next to you, with whom you’ve been chatting, suddenly stands up and belts out something powerful in note-perfect Italian. Or maybe a snake?

The third time, the sharp “ooh!” comes from a woman who stands up and brushes off her clothes. Unlikely to be a snake, then. Maybe a spilled canapé. The woman sits back down. I pick up my wine glass and put it to my lips. “Ooh!”

This time the sharp cry has come from me.

It’s definitely not a show.

I put my glass down hastily. As the sun sinks, the grasshoppers have become bolder, attracted by the candles on the dining tables and other lights on the buffet table. One has dropped into my wine glass and shows no signs of wanting to leave. In Canada, one can drink Grasshopper beer, but it’s just a label on a lager. Here, the grasshopper has invaded the gewürztraminer. Chirp, chirp.

There is a rising crescendo of short, sharp exclamations.  Most, if not all, are from the female guests. My husband is in paroxysms of laughter. He flicks a grasshopper out of his wine and continues to drink it.  My wine has remained untouched since the grasshopper appeared in it, although I’d really like to have a big swig. There are now two grasshoppers in my glass, sitting companionably, side-by-side. A third jumps on my khaki pant leg. Ooh! Flick!

Grasshoppers start landing not only on the table, but on me, and on everyone else, too. “Ooh!” is the new black. Chirp, chirp. Flick, flick. Ooh! When we arrive at the buffet, we find not only grasshoppers, but also moths, attracted by the lamps. My husband piles his plate with crocodile and kangaroo. I take what is not covered in bugs, resulting in a very small helping. “It’s just more protein,” my husband says, unhelpfully. Like Queen Victoria, I am not amused. I snag a new wine glass and try to protect it by draping it with the unlovely hat with the netting, but the grasshoppers simply get tangled in the mesh. I pick up my knife and fork, determined to have some food, but the light is uncertain. I can’t be sure what is food, and what might be volunteer buggy protein. Flick?

I give up.

Then I look up.

The sun has set while we (well, some of us) have eaten. The Milky Way is thick with stars, bright, remote, impossibly clustered into creamy swirls of light in a dark glass bowl. There are more stars than I have seen in a lifetime of city dwelling. My mouth would have fallen open, but I am mindful of the grasshoppers and keep it firmly closed.  Dear dingo, do you suckle at the Milky Way in the dreamtime?

As the diners finish, a star-talker begins to explore the night sky, pointing out planets and constellations. It is so dark and so clear that he uses a powerful flashlight to point out the section of the sky he is explaining, and we can see it outline the area easily. It’s like a laser show in a planetarium, but without the music of Pink Floyd. The chorus of ooh! has almost ceased, as the food on the tables is removed, the lights are turned off, and the attention of both the guests and the grasshoppers is refocused.

The sky here is darker than almost anywhere else on earth, removed from light pollution, and not clouded by humidity. Other places have dark sky preserves, including Jasper National Park and the Cypress Hills in my home province of Alberta. Uluru needs no designation. It’s the ancestor of dark sky. The star-talker points out where the Southern Cross should be, but I confess I don’t see it. It must be small. There is a dingo, though: Canis Major roams the southern sky. “Where is the Great Grasshopper?”  I whisper to my husband.  Shhhh.

While we gape at the stars and take our turns at the telescope, someone begins to play the didgeridoo. The music vibrates through the air, through the soil, through my skin. It’s enthralling, as if the throbbing howl is coming from the mouth of the earth. (Drone, moan, throb). There are rocks at the base of Uluru itself, which, carved by wind and weather into hollow swirls and half-tubes, some painted with pictographs, could be instruments for such a sound. Later in our trip my husband goes into a shop and comes back with his own didgeridoo. It proves impossible to pack and must be shipped home, all four and a half feet of hollow wooden tube. Moan. Dear dingo, which came first, your howl or the didgeridoo?  Or does a circle have no beginning?


It’s time to leave. I am still hungry. I think longingly of breakfast and wonder if I will dream of dingoes. A pack of wolves. A dreaming of dingoes? We trek back to the bus, me clutching my netted hat. I’ll need it tomorrow for the flies. I sit down. “Ooh!” I’ve inadvertently brought two hitchhiking grasshoppers onto the bus, trapped in the netting. Chirp, chirp. Everyone laughs. My husband rescues the stowaways and turfs them back into the desert. Flick, flick.  Dear dingo, do you dine on grasshopper? Meet me at Ayer’s Rock.